WARNING: shameless reprint of a review
www.HometownAnnapolis.com
Dining Out: Roadhouse will do whatever it takes to please
BY TERRA WALTERS, For The Capital
Published 05/21/09
For many years, Rudy’s Tavern was the quintessential “joint,” the stuff of which country music songs are written, and the go-to place for good old boys of all ages.
Advertisement When Rudy’s morphed into another locale for the Rams Head entity, many of the regulars must have felt that they’d be saying goodbye to a local institution.
Wrong.
The same leadership that has positioned the entire Rams Head Tavern organization at the top of the area food and entertainment industry was too smart for that. Do a little refurbishing, add some paint, install a new bar top, but leave the important integral components.
Those components? Start with lots of fun, a smattering of funk and unflagging friendliness. To that, add copious quantities of top-notch pub food, plenty of kinds of cold beer and good drinks. Wrap it up with outstanding service, plenty of specials, and plenty of TVs, and it equals Rams Head Roadhouse. They’ve kept the heart and soul of the place intact.
It used to be that you’d tough it out and eat in the main bar (even when the clouds of cigarette smoke made it difficult to find your plate) because it had so much more character than the non-smoking “dining room.” These days, felicitously, the parking lot is the only place that isn’t smoke-free and you can concentrate your main bar time on eating, drinking and trying to be heard. One thing they didn’t do when they did their semi-renovation was to install those sound-absorbing tiles. But then, we wouldn’t want them to. After all, it’s a roadhouse, not a library.
It was my distinct pleasure on my most recent visit to take along a friend who’d never been to this place, not in either of its incarnations. The facial expression told the tale: I’m soldiering on and giving myself up to the experience, but I am not expecting to eat well.
A short while later, after an expertly crafted Manhattan ($4.50) and a Sapphire martini ($7.25) (and the absolute authentic deal, not one of those watered-down or faux Sapphires, but the real thing), we were happily digging into orders of Cheese Louise and Prankster Pirogies.
Almost better than tasting the appetizers was watching the paradigm shift of facial expressions on the friend’s face: from “I’ll stick it out and eat some mediocre bar food with you,” to “Oh, wow, this is really tasty.”
The Cheese Louise ($8) was not just cleverly named, but genuinely swoon-worthy. Mozzarella cheese is encased in a crust made of garlic bread, then fried (didn’t taste greasy, though) and served with a delectable fresh basil marinara sauce.
There are lots of mozzarella sticks on lots of pub fare menus, but this version leaves the others at the starting gate. For one thing, there’s more cheese and that sets up a more pointed contrast between the creaminess of the mozzarella and the crunchiness of the garlic crust. The sauce? You could plunk a big ladlefull onto a plate of pasta and have some good eatin’.
Our other shared appetizer was the Prankster Perogies ($6). These mashed potato and cheddar “dumplings” also receive the expert frying this kitchen turns out, and they’re well paired with a dipping sauce of sour cream and thinly sliced green onions. We reluctantly put aside some of each appetizer for the go-box so we’d have room for dinner, and sipped on the Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc ($28) which was good and cold – good, and cold.
For entrees, one diner ordered from the Down Home Dinner section of the menu while the other (the regular) went directly for the sandwich list.
The Turbo’s Tilapia ($13) featured a substantial portion of tilapia, encrusted with almonds and panko crumbs and baked with a lemon buerre noir sauce. Surprised to learn that a roadhouse makes a buerre noir? They get around the chichi element by calling it a brown butter sauce, but it’s delicious irrespective of what they call it. The fish, fresh and sweet-fleshed, came with rice and the veggie du jour, which was green beans.
Dos Amigos Fish Tacos ($9) is one of those dreaded spoilers. It’s so yummy that it spoils one for anything else on the menu and keeps one from being adventurous and exploring things like meatloaf and crab mac and cheese. The fish (probably haddock) filets are beer-battered, crisp-fried and nestled with the sweet crunch of homemade cole slaw into two warmed flour tortillas.
A final touch to the tacos involves generous drizzlings of a savory chipotle mayonnaise that proves the kitchen to be intrepid when it comes to jacking up the fire power. The accompanying rice and black beans were quite tasty, but the guacamole was undistinguished. One taco went home and was almost as good the next day.
We were having a good time and were reluctant to leave, so dessert seemed in order. That gave us a few more minutes to people-watch and bask in the ambiance.
The healthy-eating gods will surely grant us dispensation when they hear how delicious the Turtle Cheesecake ($7) and the Lemon Berry Cake ($6) turned out to be. The desserts are made aboard the Mother Ship at Rams Head Tavern on Inner West Street, but we forked up every mouth-watering morsel and didn’t care a whit where they had been made. Two cups of steaming coffee sealed the deal on the evening.
Short of turning cartwheels (who knows, maybe they’d do that, too), Rams Head Roadhouse does whatever it takes to satisfy patrons: whether it’s offering free food and $2.50 libations (draft, house wine, rail brands) from 4 to 7 Monday through Friday; or the innovative Sunday Bloody Sunday Brunch (you’re the bartender, build your own Bloody); or one of the nightly specials (a crowd fave is the $20 lobster dinner, complete with sides, on Monday); or the much-vaunted World Beer Club (everyone should get on the World Beer Bandwagon), Rams Head Roadhouse is out to win you over.
Haven’t been? Give them a shot at being your own personal roadhouse too.
WHEN YOU GO
WHAT: Rams Head Roadhouse
WHERE: 1773 General’s Highway, Annapolis
PHONE: 410-849-8058
WEB SITE: www.ramsheadtavern.com
HOURS: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Sunday. Sunday brunch: 10 a.m.-1 p.m.
EXECUTIVE CHEF: Jimmy Donlin
APPETIZERS: $6-$10
ENTRÉES: $10-$20
RESERVATIONS: Not accepted, except for pre-arranged large parties during holidays, etc.
CREDIT CARDS: All major credit cards are accepted.
ACCESSIBILITY: Not currently, but they’re in the process of providing it.
